On Cookbooks
A short run today–I’ve worked up to running five days a week, but two of those days are going to be short 20-min sessions (not counting warmup and cooldown). I was considering leaving the house today, but after yesterday’s cook-a-thon (we had MakeMe and her boyfriend over for dinner) I’m kind of nixing the notion. Besides, I need to get revisions out of the way so I can write, both on contracted stuff and on the New Shiny Project. After a long bout with revisions, all I can think of is creating anew.
I am waiting with bated breath for my next issue of Cook’s Illustrated. The kids love Scientific American and I like it too, but there’s just something about CI that makes me so so happy. I hear the next issue has a chocolate-chip cookie recipe. You can guess what I’ll be baking soon.
Someone asked me about cookbooks yesterday, so here we go. The first one–the one that started this whole thing–was Baking with Julia. After I actually started producing good bread, I got a couple other bread cookbooks too, the best of which is this one. Then I got Harold McGee’s On Food and Cooking, which actually goes into the chemistry of foods and why they behave the way they do. Just like CookWise and BakeWise, which I consider essential.
This was a revelation to me. I had viewed cooking as some weird alchemical art whose secrets were only given to the few with the proper handshake, kind of like some people view getting published. And after being told over and over again that I was no good at it, the way I was no good at anything practical because “your head is always in the clouds”, I’d given up.
But “cookbooks” that tell me WHY food behaves the way it does, and how to tweak recipes? ZOMG. The idea that I could learn how food reacted so I could put recipes together and get consistent results was a complete and very gratifying shock.
If I had to tell someone one cookbook to get, I’d recommend the McGee even though it isn’t technically a cookbook, because understanding how and why food behaves the way it does is way more useful than a list of ingredients. Then I’d recommend CookWise and BakeWise; then this vegetarian cookbook (since the UnSullen tends toward vegetarianism). With those you’re pretty much covered.
I do also occasionally rely on my faithful old red-plaid Better Homes and Gardens, and my old Joy of Cooking when I’m looking for something kind of fancy-dancy. And now I’ve started branching out–I did a cheesy-chicken-rice thing from leftovers the other day that vanished in a heartbeat. If I’d had sour cream it would’ve gone even more quickly.
So there you have it, my list of “essential” cookbooks. Still, all the cookbooks in the world won’t help without the willingness to get in there and make mistakes, experiment, and have some fun. (Just like writing. Okay, I’ll stop flogging that point…for now.) The kids love watching and learning and helping to cook, a valuable life skill that will contribute oodles to their adulthood. And I don’t eat out as much as I did now that I’m enamored of the process of cooking itself. Quelle disastre, right?
Right. All that money I’m saving is probably going to go toward some Le Creuset. I keep telling myself it’s quality cookware that the Princess can have after I’m gone, therefore it’s an investment…
ETA: Thanks for telling me about the broken code. HTML, she is trying to keel me…
See? I’m hopeless. Completely hopeless.
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Tags: exercise, foodening, pretty shinies


March 24th, 2009 at 12:19 pm
I highly (highly, HIGHLY) recommend Shirley O. Corriher’s “Cookwise” if you enjoy knowing about the how & why of cooking. She’s into the food science of things, without getting too technical. Any time we want to make chocolate chip cookies, as a matter of fact, we automatically go to her book, even though we have a ton of cookbooks. She has a whole table that gives you every variation you can tweak to achieve your favorite type of cookie in the range from puffed and soft to thin and crispy. And her thin, crispy cookies are NOT dry, unlike some!
There are quite a few cookbooks I go back to time and again, but that’s my must-have.
March 24th, 2009 at 12:34 pm
Just so you know, something about your code is wonky on the lj website. I figure maybe you don’t check your mirrors very often.
That said, my dad got me a new bread oven, so I’m going to be trying out that old recipe / information you posted awhile back on that. I appreciate your posts about cooking almost as much as I do those about writing.
I’ve been trying to get braver about the kitchen, of late. I used to live under the spectre of “you’re a terrible cook!” and having ruined three-step ragu (who knew there was a fourth step tucked in there… something about draining the water…), but now I’ve mastered some of the simpler tasks, like tacos (which go great with salsa instead of chopping up your own toppings!)
March 24th, 2009 at 1:36 pm
I am totally in sync with you when it comes to cook books. I think I’m a charter subscriber to CI as I love knowing why and how. One of my favourites that I don’t see mentioned here is Craig Claibourne’s NY Times cookbook for more gourmet fare.
For beginners, I often buy them a copy of the BH&G cookbook, the Good Housekeeping cookbook and whatever my current favourite book is on the use of herbs and spices. (My personal reference is OOP so I’m always scanning the latest ones out.) I think having an herb and spice reference is essential as so many people fall down in that arena due to fear.
Recipe collections is one of the things I absolutely love about the web. (Well, aside for the fact that it is how I earn my living.) Want to get ideas for a dish or find a recipe you lost long ago, use a search engine! *s*
March 24th, 2009 at 1:43 pm
I can’t cook. I have no domestic skill whatsoever, mainly because I don’t have the time to learn otherwise. We eat out WAY more than we should, but it’s what I knew growing up – eat out or do the meal-in-a-box-nuke-it thing, so I had no foundation to build on. We’re growing, slowly. I have a handful of things I rotate that my husband, bless his heart, tells me are wonderful.
March 24th, 2009 at 3:18 pm
Even though I didn’t have kids, a really good cookbook is the one put out by the La Leche League.
Good basic recipes, freezing and/or storing information. I used to make their granola recipe all the time, with my own tweaks, back in the day before I became allergic to every darn thing . . .
March 24th, 2009 at 4:56 pm
That’s the second time I’ve seen someone blog about Cooks Illustrated in two days. It sounds great. Not sure I’ve ever seen it here in Oz. Toddles off to look at international subscriptions and add cookbooks to wishlists.
March 24th, 2009 at 9:25 pm
I used to be a full time caterer, and DH was a professional chef. We’re no longer in that business, but we still love to cook and eat.
I have a few cookbook reccomendations you might like.
The first are pretty much classic reference material used in many professional kitchens. I would suggest buying used copies, as these are NOT cheap. New prices are insanely stupid. Go for the used.
“Larousse Gastronomique: The World’s Greatest Culinary Encyclopedia, Completely Revised and Updated” by Librairie Larousse
The Professional Chef, 8th Edition* by The Culinary Institute of America (The 7th edition “The New Professional Chef” is just also good)
CIA also put out a new one, “Baking and Pastry: Mastering the Art and Craft” I don’t have this one, but I’m sure it’s excellent. Actually, CIA puts put a variety of cookbooks.
“The Cook’s Illustrated Complete Book of Poultry” by the editors of Cooks Illustrated. Published in 1999, probably only used available. This is one of the best poultry books I have ever seen.
“Sauces: Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making” by James Peterson. An all around great book on sauces. More contemporary cooking and less technical than Larousse Gastronomique. Another one to buy used.
“License to Grill” and “The Thrill of the Grill” by Chris Schlessinger and John Willoughby. If you like to grill or cook over an open fire, these are amazing books. They have great pics with easy to follow, clear instructions. Lots of good info on technique and why things cook they way they do. They cover everythnig: soups, salads, beef, poultry, seafood, veggie dishes and even desserts. They have also written two other cookbooks. I didn’t know about those, but I’m guessing they are just as good.
“Joy of Cooking” is another must have cookbook.
After these, we have lots of regional or specialty cookbooks, but nothing in particular I’d say is a must have. I have more baking cookbooks, but those are still at my mom’s house.
My thoughts on Le Creuset. My DH had a complete set he bought about 25-28 years ago. Other than the non-stick skillet, they really held up well. And they don’t lose their value. However, the suckers weigh a ton. If you have a bad back, or wrist/shoulder problems, think twice about hefting these on a regular basis. We ended up selling everything but one the 3 qt. Saucier Pan. Perfect for cooking risotto, which is the main reason we kept this one. Most of our other pots & pans are All-Clad or Calphalon. With these, I’d recommend their higher end/professional lines. The Calphalon available in places like Target is not the same quality. There are others out there that are good, but these have held up to years of use and abuse in both our professional kitchen and now our home. We do have lots of specialty pieces for both cooking & baking from different manufacturers, but they don’t get the same kind of heavy use, so I won’t recommend any of them.
March 24th, 2009 at 9:42 pm
I only have one cookbook, Joy of Cooking, and I pretty much never use it, except to look up terminology while watching Top Chef. I use the interwebs for most of my recipes, Tastespotting is really fun because you can go by pictures. I’ve also found the only way to see if something will work is to try it, so I make alterations to most recipes and if it doesn’t work out, I got chicken nuggets and fish sticks in the freezer.
Here recently I’ve been branching out and have made beignets, pretzels, Boston Cream Pie and pita bread. I’m getting pretty good with the yeast doughs finally.
March 25th, 2009 at 7:03 am
You’re probably not looking for more vegetarian cookbooks, but I had to tell you my very favorite one anyway.
It’s HOME COOKING, the first cookbook from Linda McCartney. I got it when I first started in my veggie life, and not only are the techniques easy to follow, but the food is simple and delicious. You can get hungry just paging through as well, because the photography is stunning.
Anyway, if you do get it, enjoy!
March 25th, 2009 at 7:25 am
I love my Le Creuset pieces! To save a little bit of cash, I purchase mine at Williams Sonoma when they put the outdated colors on sale. It’s usually a substantial discount and that way I have cheery multi-colored cookware. I actually leave my favorite sizes out on my cooktop. It makes my kitchen more colorful and beats having to dig out the pots time after time since they are heavy and I’m a klutz. I’m pretty sure they’d break a foot.
March 25th, 2009 at 2:55 pm
Another way to save some $ on Le Creuset is buy from an outlet store. Woodburn Company Stores is less than an hour south of Vancouver with a Le Creuset store that has sold me some pieces with minor blems at considerable savings and shipped them to me saving the drive.
March 25th, 2009 at 3:34 pm
Tim: is there a link for that store? I like the idea, but the driving, not so much…
March 25th, 2009 at 7:00 pm
There is a Le Creuset at the outlet mall here:
Seattle Premium Outlets
10600 Quil Ceda Blvd.
Tulalip, WA 98271
(360) 654-3000
I have to say, I really did love ours, but when I injured my back, it just became too painful to use regularly. II cook too much to be in pain from hefting pots. Even now, when we’re making a big batch of whatever, I have to get DH to lift the pot to pour. We only sold the rest of the set a few years ago, and after 20+ years, it still looked like new. (except for that non-stick skillet) It is wonderful stuff, but it’s sooooo heavy!
March 27th, 2009 at 11:32 am
I’ve often been able to get really good deals on Le Creuset from their local outlet store. Not sure if they ship…
Le Creuset Company Store
Alamance Crossing
3142 Waltham Blvd.
Burlington, NC 27215
Tel: (336) 524-0087
March 30th, 2009 at 12:10 am
Lili:
There’s no website for the store that I’m aware of, but address is: Le Creuset Factory Store, 1001 Arney Rd., Ste # 618, Woodburn, OR 97071, Tel: 503-982-2520.
The outlet itself has a website at http://www.woodburncompanystores.com/